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Tips for Solving Bad Dog Bicycle Behaviors Bicycle Chasers If you have a bicycle (or car) chasing dog, you need to address it sooner than later. If you allow the dog to practice the behavior, you are ensuring it will take longer to extinguish. Each time he chases a bike, several chemicals are released into his body which makes him feel good. It is the association between the chasing and the good feeling that reinforces him to chase.
During the retraining process, do not allow your dog to be in a
situation where he is near a bike and can practice the chase. Keep him
away from bike trails and be aware of what is around you so you can put
barriers such as a parked car between you and an oncoming bike. Some dogs are fearful and think by attacking, they get the bike before it gets them. Others are fearful that harm will come to their owner while on the bike. Others are protecting their territory by chasing bikes away as they pass their yard. (which they should not be allowed to do). Most dogs simply do not have enough exercise and are bored. Avoid using aversive training to stop your dog from chasing. Do not allow anyone to throw or spray things at your dog. All this does is makes the dog fearful of the bike or aggressive towards it and he will be more reactive when the next cyclist comes along.
Use a positive step by step process to re-train your dog that bicycles
are good things and do not need to be feared or chased. Combine this
re-training with an exercise program that gives your dog 30 to 60
minutes (or more as needed by the dog) of aerobic exercise twice daily.
Aerobic means the dog is slightly elevating his breathing. Playing
running games in the yard, chasing a ball, jogging with his owner,
practicing agility, rough housing with others dogs at an off leash area,
or swimming are all good ways to exercise a dog that chases bikes.
Walking a dog on leash is no exercise at all for medium-sized and high
energy dogs. 1. Allow your dog to approach the bike in his own time. Praise and treat every time he looks at the bicycle, even from a distance and remains calm. If he attacks it, use the leash and excited voice and treats to distract him away but do not pop him nor drag him away. Start from farther away if he reacts like this. 2. When he moves closer calmly, reward him. If he sniffs it calmly, reward him. Call him a few feet away after each successful interaction, regain his attention and praise. Let him go back to it. 3. When he is comfortable being near the downed bike, stand it upright an repeat the same sequence. 4. When he is successful with that, stand near the bike and repeat. 5. Pick up the leash, stand near the bike and repeat. 6. Have a helper the dog knows well to hold the bike as though he is going to push it. Helper should stand on the side opposite to the dog in case the dog reacts by snapping at the person. Have the kickstand still down so she can let go if need be and the bike will not fall over. The owner holds the leash and rewards the dog for looking at the bike and/or person and staying calm. Be ready to use your enthusiastic voice, clapping, sounds, toys and/or treats and leash to redirect your dog. Again, do not drag him away, just redirect. Have the helper let go of the handles. Repeat. If you don't have a helper, hold the leash on the side he is most familiar with (left hand if you heel him on the left) and hold the bike handles. Reward and let go. 7. Have your helper push the bike one small slow step, moving relaxed and slow. Or you take one small step. 8. Take two small slow steps. 9. Take 3 small slow steps. 10 Continue until you can take 10 steps with no reaction. 11. Increase the length of the steps by a half step. 12. Increase the steps to normal length. 13. Slightly increase the speed of the steps. 14. Increase speed again. 15. Have your helper sit on the bike. If there is risk of your dog biting the leg on the dog's side, protect it with a barrier such as metal tube over the leg but under the pants so it is not visible to the dog. The same if you have no helper and must sit on the bike. 16. Have your helper push the bike a step with his toes. This is where the dog may start to react. Keep the dog's focus on you but can still see the bike in his peripheral vision. 17. Keep the dog in one spot. Do not walk with the bike. Take two steps. 18. Three steps. 19. Build up to ten steps. 20. Push the pedal one complete rotation. 21. Push the pedal three complete rotations. 22. Pedal three bike lengths.
23. A. If the bike is ridden by a helper, start walking the dog at a
distance (about 20 feet).
24. A. Each session move the dog one foot closer to the bike. Remember to
only progress if your dog stays calm. if he reacts, back up to a
previous step where he was successful. if you are riding, start slowly
increasing the distance you travel. 25. Slightly increase the speed the bike travels. 26. Continue having the bike pass by you at increasing speeds. Start with the dog watching the bike approach. 27. Then having the dog facing sideways. 28. Then having the dog not seeing its approach and bike traveling slowly and about 20 feet away. This mimics real life situations where a bike surprises you from behind. 29. Arrange for multiple bicycles to ride by your dog. Allow space at first, moving closer as his behavior improves. Always maintain control of your dog by using the leash. 30. Yay! If you dog reacts to screaming or yelling children, work on that first separately. By this point your dog should be sufficiently proofed to start work on kids talking, then yelling as they ride by.
Disclaimer: Copyright ÓDonna Hill 2006 |
Copyright Ó2006 Island Discovery & Training